Ancient Messene

Gymnasium-Stadium complex

Tower near Arcadian Gate

Asklepieion East side

Ancient Messene is a hidden gem. Nestled in the folds of Mount Ithome in the modern nome (province) of Messenia, it was founded by the Theban general Epaminondas as the capital for the newly-liberated helots (agricultural slaves) , who had been enslaved by their eastern neighbors the Spartans over three centuries before.Virtually unknown even to archaeologists and historians as an archaeological site, it has been sensitively restored, with lots of explanatory signage. The setting is breathtaking, especially the wonderfully well preserved fourth-century-BC walls which run along the crests of the surrounding hills. There is a pretty village, Mavromati, nearby with a couple of good tavernas and a few rooms for rent. Unfortunately, the approach roads are rather confusing and the sign posting from Kalamata not very helpful. But, if you are in the area, the site is well worth a detour, as the guide books say.